In this months post, I will guide you through the essential gardening tasks, provide top horticultural tips and expert advice so you will know what to do and how to do it to bring out the best in your lawn and garden during this busy gardening month of March.
While I write this post, it’s currently 1 degree and snowing here in Vancouver with several days of similarly cold and bleak weather in the forecast so it can be hard to believe that spring truly is just around the corner, and yet it undeniably is and before you know it, spring has officially arrived with its warmer days and longer daylight hours.
This month marks both the arrival of spring and the official beginning of the gardening year. The days grow longer and warmer and the garden begins to burst with green shoots and cheerful spring bulbs and early spring flowers. The garden seems to grow by the minute after a few sunny days and longer daylight.
This is one of my favorite months of the year as it represents a time of hope, renewal and new beginnings. We made it through a long winter and have the enjoyable months of spring and summer to look forward to ahead.
Garden highlights this month include spring flowering bulbs of Daffodils, Hyacinths, Iris’s and my favorite bulb the Snake’s head Fritillary, early spring flowering shrubs such as Forsythia, Star Magnolia and Camellia and the evergreen climber Clematis armandii. The flowering of our native Salmonberry and flowering Currant marks the annual spring return of the Rufous Hummingbird to our coastal area, who enjoys feeding on the nectar of these flowers.
This is such an important month to prepare lawns & gardens for the main growing season ahead with many important gardening jobs taking on a growing sense of urgency this month. There are essential gardening jobs to get on with in March and I will be discussing these in great detail below. At the top of the list of importance is understanding soil health and plant nutrition as this is key to a vibrant and productive lawn & garden. I highlight the various forms of organic matter, soil supplements and mulches and their individual functions to improve soil and plant health in this months post. There is much to know on this essential subject so I’ve also created a separate blog discussing soil health and plant nutrition in greater detail along with essential tips and advice so please have a read.
This month’s spotlight features include Rose pruning and the various pruning methods for the different types of Roses you may have in your garden and also the importance of mulching garden beds along with various types of mulch best for specific garden plantings.
My top horticultural secrets to a vibrant, highly productive lawn & garden are explained in this month’s post. You won’t want to miss this so please do read on.
Jobs for March checklist:
Prune Roses after mid month and complete before mid April or when the Forsythia is in bloom with its bright yellow flowers.
Pruning methods for each type of rose discussed in monthly spotlight feature below
Prune Hydrangeas later this month after risk of hard frost has passed-two different methods for pruning Macrophylla vs Paniculata & Arborescence
Macrophylla (Mophead & Lacecap incl. Serrata): Light pruning to deadhead and remove dead, damaged and oldest unproductive canes. These flower on older wood rather than the new seasons growth
Remove dead stems, badly rubbing stems and one or 2 of the oldest unproductive stems (thick and grey colored) to reduce congestion and improve light and airflow. Prune frost damage stems back to above a healthy set of buds. Deadhead to above the next healthy set of buds
Paniculata (PeeGee and Limelight) and Arborescence (Smooth Hydrangeas-Annabelle, Incrediball and Invicibelle): Prune back hard in late winter or early spring to a framework of branches to encourage larger flowerheads supported by stronger upright branches. These flower on this seasons growth so good to cut back hard
Remove any dead, damaged or rubbing stems. Then cut back to the lowest pair of healthy buds closest to the permanent structural framework
Prune early blooming deciduous shrubs such as Forsythia after flowering
Hard prune Buddleia-Most buddleia flower on new season’s growth that grow in early summer so can be pruned hard to a low framework of permanent stems in early spring
Cut back Ferns later this month and before new fronds emerge to refresh Ferns. Cut to the knuckle where delicate new fronds will emerge and replenish the Fern
Prune Lavender shrubs now to remove spent flower stalks and clip over up any winter damaged foliage while refraining from cutting too hard into woody stems. Lavender does not create new growth easily from old stems so don't cut back into the woody stems
Coppice Willow and Dogwood shrubs if grown for their colourful winter stems
Coppicing is a pruning technique where a tree or shrub is cut to ground level, resulting in regeneration of new vibrant stems from the base. Do this annually or every 2-3 years
Rejuvenation prune ¼ of older canes on multi-stemmed flowering shrubs such as Lilac, Viburnum, native Wood Rose and Mock Orange with removing dead, damaged or diseased wood first
Complete renovation or staggered renovation pruning of overgrown deciduous and evergreen ornamental shrubs as discussed in February blog
Complete winter pruning of Apple and Pear trees as discussed in January post along with detailed instructions on how to do this
Continue pruning Grape vines this month as discussed in February post along with how-to guidelines to follow
Prune Fig trees this month to support Breba Crop Figs
Cleanup garden beds by raking up surface debris and weeding and then mulch surfaces. See spotlight feature on types of mulches best for specific plantings
Improve soil in garden beds by adding relevant soil amendments based upon your soils condition and mulching bare surfaces with the appropriate mulching medium depending on what’s predominantly planted in those garden beds. This is discussed in detail in the monthly spotlight feature below and in my separate soil nutrition and amendments blog
Mow lawns when grass is approx 3 inches high with the blades set on a higher setting for the first couple of cuts. Remove 1/3rd or less of the total grass blade height each cut.
Aim to do when there is a stretch of dry days, as it can cause compaction damage if the lawn is soggy or squishy.
Mow regularly weekly or biweekly during growing season without letting it get too long between cuts. Removing too much growth at once stresses and thins the lawn making it more susceptible to weed establishment and chafer grub invasion. Lawns will be a spotlight feature in April’s blog so stay tuned.
Apply Dolomite Lime to lawn surfaces
Dolomite Lime neutralizes acidic soils and corrects calcium and magnesium deficiencies. This helps reduce moss growth and the calcium assists with greening up the lawn in early spring.
If planning to aerate lawn, apply Dolomite lime immediately after aerating as it allows for better contact with grass roots where it can be more effective
Aerate lawns now if not planning on overseeding surfaces or wait until warmer weather for seed germination in April or May and aerate just prior to topdressing and overseeding. Lawn improvement will be discussed in detail in April’s post.
Aeration reduces compaction, improves drainage and allows oxygen, water and amendments to penetrate the root zone
Mechanical aerators are available for hire for use on bigger lawns and for smaller lawns an easy to use manual foot press aerating tool can be used.
Mow lawns prior to aerating
Do not fertilize lawns this month. Wait until closer to May when grass tips are actively growing.
Flip or aerate the compost with a garden fork
Continue to cut back Ornamental grasses as discussed in February post
Continue to lift and divide perennials as needed. This is especially a good time to divide and refresh herbaceous perennials-discarding any woody or unproductive center and dividing up the newer growth sections to be transplanted
Plant and transplant evergreens including hedges as long as the ground isn’t frozen
Plant container grown trees and shrubs or transplant trees and shrubs that need to be moved
Vegetables and herbs-
Chit potatoes prior to planting out next month-Encouraging seed potatoes to sprout before planting out.
Give the tubers a head start by stand tubers in an egg box with tiny buds or eyes up in a bright frost free place such as a window sill or greenhouse.
The eyes will sprout and produce a crop sooner than if planted dormant. It takes several weeks for shoots to grow and once 2-3cm long they can be planted out
Seeds to start indoors-Sow tomato, peppers and Chilies
Seeds to sow outdoors- Arugula, Spinach and lettuce, annual herbs, radish, Beets and peas
Plant onions, garlic, leeks, shallots, broad beans and turnips outdoors
Prune established herbs that have become too leggy such as Oregano, Thyme and Sage as they will regenerate with new growth
Lindsay’s top tips for March:
Lawn Improvement-Aeration can be done now if skipping the step of over-seeding. Apply dolomite lime immediately after aerating so it reaches the lawns root system better. Wait to do lawn improvements of overseeding and topdressing when daily temperatures are optimal for seed germination (10-25 degrees celsius) which is typically in April and May here on the west coast. I have unsuccessfully tried to overseed client lawns as early as mid March when the temperatures were not warm enough for germination, only to find the seed did absolutely nothing even after the optimum temperatures were reached 2-3 weeks later. The seed can rot if it’s too cold and wet and in my experience does not germinate weeks later when the conditions become optimum, so it’s a waste of time and money to do it too early.
Important tip-Fertilize lawn later in Spring-Do not fertilize lawns now but wait until closer to May when grass tips are actively growing. In winter and early spring, grass is putting its energy into root establishment/growth which is important for its ability to cope with drought conditions. The more established and deeper the roots, the better it can handle drought and require less watering. We do not want to encourage the lawn to prematurely switch from this process to putting energy into early tip growth at the expense of root growth.
After pruning Roses and Hydrangeas and renovation pruning trees and shrubs or hedging, I always mulch the surface with compost or a well rotted manure to feed the plants. I generally topdress or mulch the surface surrounding the plant rather than cultivate or incorporate into exisiting soil as feeder roots can be damaged. Be careful not to have mulch or manure going up the trunks or structural stems of plants as it can rot the structure and cause entry points for disease and infection. If mulching has been done just before pruning, don’t re-mulch. The nutrients will be available to the plant for some time.
With long term plantings such as trees and shrubs, I apply Mycorrhizal Fungi to the roots as well as amend the planting hole with Bone Meal for optimum root establishment and long term growing success. Then backfill with existing soil and mulch the surface with an inch or 2 of garden compost or composted bark mulch, being careful to keep it off the trunk or stems
Mycorrhizal fungi bind to plant roots increasing the root area and absorbing water and mineral nutrients allowing for a more efficient uptake of water and nutrients by the associated plant. They are able to take up nutrients in soil that the roots cannot otherwise access and share this with the plant making it healthier and better resistant to drought, diseases and pollution.
I use a product called Myke and apply the fungi directly on the rootball as the fungi must be in direct contact with the roots to work then pop in the planting hole and backfill with the existing soil
I always sprinkle a handful of Bone Meal to the bottom of the planting hole providing the roots with phosphorus to establish a healthy root system which is vital to the long term health of trees and shrubs
Feed the soil not the plant-Soil health is inextricably tied to plant health. There is a symbiotic relationship between the two. Soil nutrients, soil microorganisms and fungi and soil structure are fundamental to plant vitality and growth.
Adding organic matter in the form of manure or compost is a always a good idea and helps improve soil structure, adds balanced nutrients and acts as a surface mulch. I use well aged or finished manure from organic sources where possible and look for organic composts if purchasing from a soil provider.
When using soil supplements or amendments to add nutrients into depleted soils and provide plants with valuable nutrients, I always prefer to use organic sources rather than synthetic fertilizer/amendment products. Organic fertilizers and amendments are derived from plant or animal sources and contain plant nutrients in organic form. Organic products tend to be slow-released so they are available to plants as they are needed and have a longer lasting effect then many fast release synthetic products. Examples of organic amendments include: kelp meal, liquid seaweed, liquid fish fertilizer, fish meal, bone meal, aged manure, home-made garden compost, poultry manure pellets and liquid comfrey or nettle feeds.
Please see my soil health and plant nutrition blog for further details.
Important tip-When using manure in food producing gardens, ensure its well aged or well rotted and where possible research if the manure is from an organic production facilities as manure from non-organic production can include pesticides, antibiotics, de-wormers and other harmful pathogens that can be taken up by the crops being grown and consumed. Raw manure in particular is not safe for use due to this and while composting helps with pathogen breakdown and reduction, it still does not take care of all toxins and pathogens.
Fungal disease management-Black knot is a common fungal disease of Prunus trees including ornamental and fruiting plum and cherry trees. Hard swollen black galls (tumor like growths) form on branches and occasionally on trunks.
The best management practice is to prune out branches that are infected with black knot as this reduces the spread of fungal spores within the tree to other branches. Remove prunings off the property to prevent the spread of spores to nearby Prunus species of trees. If branches of a larger diameter that are integral to the structure of the tree are infected, do not remove these larger branches. Just remove as many infected smaller to medium sized branches as possible.
Pruning out galls is not necessary in trees where black knot galls do not result in wilt and death of leaves and young branches.
Prune in late winter (February & March) as this will prevent black knot spores from infecting the pruning wound.
Always disinfect tools after use to prevent spread to other Prunus trees
Spotlight on Rose pruning:
When to prune: Prune most Roses in early spring (mid March to early April), with the exception of one time flowering shrub Roses (old garden Roses) such as Gallica, Damask, Alba and Rambling Roses which should be pruned late summer after flowering.
Why prune: To improve the health and quantity and quality of flowering.
Tools for the job: Sharp secateurs for most canes and sharp loppers for thicker woody material. A good quality pruning saw may be needed for very dense dead canes but use loppers where possible.
Basic Rose pruning technique for all Roses:
Identify the type of Rose you have and follow the recommended pruning method for each type. If unsure of the type of Rose, prune lightly by removing only 1/3rd of each cane in early spring and follow the below basic pruning guidelines:
Start by removing dead and diseased stems as well as spindly or crossing canes
Remove unproductive older thicker wood with little sign of newer growth or buds
Shorten remaining healthy canes by 1/3rd pruning to outward facing bud to encourage an open centered shape. Pruning cuts should slope downwards so water does not collect on surface of cut
Hybrid Tea Roses:
Heavy pruning is required for a good flower display
Remove dead, damaged, diseased or rubbing canes
Remove weak canes to ground level
Shorten remaining strong canes to 1-2 feet above ground level and prune ¼ above an outward facing bud and at a sloping angle so water does not collect on pruned surface
Repeat Flowering Shrub Roses:
Prune lighter then Hybrid Tea Roses. Aim for an open, strong structure that will support prolific flowers this summer. This group include David Austin English Roses, Bourbon, China and Portland Roses.
Remove the 3D’s as per above
Remove overcrowded canes pruning above and outward facing bud
Remove shoots crowding into the center and cut them back to a main stem to encourage a less congested, more open center form
Shorten remaining strong stems by 1/3rd
Shorten strong sideshoots to 2 or 3 buds
David Austin English roses: prune back the previous season’s growths by 30 to 50 percent of their length
*Mature shrubs require a light renewal pruning by cutting some of the older main stems back to the base. This encourages vigorous new shoots from the base that will flower the following summer
Single Flowering Shrub Roses:
Includes species (Gallica, Alba, Damask etc), Shrub and Rugosa groups. Pruning time is late summer after flowering
Remove the 3D’s, crossing and spindly growth
Avoid excessive build-up of older, unproductive wood that is causing the centre to become crowded, removing one or two older branches from the centre
If they become leggy and bare at the base, remove one or two stems back to near ground level, which will usually encourage new growth from the base
Rosa Rugosa is best left unpruned to retain its compact shape but to control size just prune out the tallest or perimeter canes to ground level
Climbing Roses:
If newly planted and establishing, allow new canes to grow for 2 years before doing any shortening of canes and tie in the strongest canes to support structure to form a framework for sideshoots. Remove any weak canes at this time. After the second year canes develop sideshoots from the main framework. Shorten sideshoots and remove dead canes.
For established climbers aim to maintain a framework of long stems trained laterally with side branches breaking from them. These side branches will carry the flowers on new growth produced in spring. Ideally a third of the plant is removed each year, pruning out the oldest, woodiest stems so that it is constantly renewing itself.
Rambling Roses:
Flower once in mid-summer with clusters of smaller flowers. Examples include New Dawn, Albertine & Dorothy Perkins. These need little pruning but should be trained and trimmed immediately after flowering as the flowers are carried mostly on stems grown in late summer.
Groundcover Roses:
Once established, prune off 6 inches of growth before buds begin to form. When they become too large and congested they can be renovated by pruning to near ground level (4in) from the base in late winter.
General rose pruning tip: After pruning Roses it’s best to mulch around them with aged manure and/or compost to provide nutrients to the plant. I like to use Steer manure for this. I don’t tend to cultivate into existing soil as it can damage surface level feeder roots so I just topdress or mulch the surface.
Spotlight on garden mulches and soil amendments:
When to mulch: Late winter after renovation pruning and early spring after pruning the above listed plants such as Roses and Hydrangeas is ideal. Mid to late spring into early summer and fall are good times as well. Fall is a great time to add manure to veggie gardens as it allows for maximum time to break down and incorporate into beds.
Why Mulch: Mulching the bare surface of garden beds (and around plantings) has multiple highly beneficial purposes. It suppresses weeds, retains moisture during times of drought, feeds the soil and adds organic matter to improve soil structure.
Tools for the job: A shovel and wheelbarrow, a hard bow rake for spreading piles on larger open surfaces (example is this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-51-in-Wood-Handle-Steel-14-Tine-Bow-Rake-3825100/307828063), an 18 inch spring brace rake for wider spreading and an 8 inch rake for spreading between closer plantings (example in image gallery below)
The right mulching material for specific types of garden plantings:
Herbaceous plantings (annuals and perennials with non-woody stems)-A finer to medium textured material such as garden compost, garden blend soil (which consists of compost, aged manure and sand), composted bark mulch (with the benefits of nutrients and weed suppression) and even pine needles work well as an organic surface mulch that provides nutrients. Compost and garden blend soil in particular, are excellent at adding organic matter that improves soil structure.
Vegetable garden and Rose beds-Fertile rich mulch such as aged manure or manure blended with compost provides plants with a good does of nutrients so use on plants that have high nutrient requirements such as vegetables and Roses. Mushroom manure tends to be more alkaline and is suitable for growing vegetables and Roses but shouldn’t be used around acidic loving plants. Manure is excellent at adding organic matter to improve poor soil conditions and provide plants with broad spectrum nutrients.
Trees and shrubs-A courser textured woodchip or bark mulch works well to provide moisture retention and weed suppression and acts like the natural duff layer in forests. These have lower nutritional value then the above mulches but this is fine for trees and shrubs with deeper root systems that are pulling nutrients from deeper below the surface then smaller shallow rooted shrubs or annuals and perennials. Shredded cedar, Cedar bark mulch, pine mulch or Hemlock and Fir combination bark mulch are well suited to trees and shrubs that like acidic conditions and tend to grow well on the west coast. Our natural soil conditions are acidic in the coastal pacific northwest region. These types of courser bark mulches last longer and need less replenishing as they are more decay resistant then finer or medium course mulches.
If a darker color appearance is preferred as well as a nutrient boost to areas with poor or depleted soils, a composted bark mulch is a medium textured mulch that also works well for trees and shrubs as well as annual and perennial ornamental gardens. It is less decay resistant since the bark is finer than that of a courser mulch.
Annuals and Perennials-A fine to medium mulch is suitable which includes garden compost, a garden blend soil which usually consists of a mix of compost, sand and aged manure, leaf mould which is composted shredded leaves or a composted bark mulch work very well. The composted bark mulch provides nutrients while also providing the weed suppression and moisture retention of the bark mulch component. Herbacious annuals and perennials get overwhelmed by course bark mulches which smother their delicate structures and often tie up nitrogen as they slowly decompose, rendering nitrogen unavailable to the plant so best to steer clear of courser mulches preferred by trees and shrubs.
Mediterranean plantings-Drought tolerant plants such as Lavender, Rosemary, Bay Laurel, Thyme, Euphorbia etc benefit from a non organic, low nutrient, well draining surface mulch such as gravel.
Lawns-For topdressing a typical residential lawn surface after aerating or dethatching and just prior to over-seeding, you want a turf blend product which consists of 50/50 compost and golf sand. The sand improves drainage while the compost provides a good nutrient base for seeds to germinate and establish and also feeds the existing grass. If drainage is extremely poor, you may opt for a higher percentage of sand such as a 60/40 mix if available from your supplier. Straight golf course sand can be used where the lawn is being aerated but not over-seeded. Bent Grass specific lawns such as what's sometimes grown on golf courses are best topdressed with straight golf sand.
Tip-Spread the mulch around all existing plants at least 2 inches thick and be sure not to bury the plants or have the mulch suffocating the trunk or stems of the plant. It can rot the structure of the plant and create an entry point for disease or fungal infection.
Another tip-I often get asked if its okay to mulch the surface where spring bulbs will be coming up or where bulb shoots are beginning to emerge and it is just fine. I’ve seen bulbs push through bark mulch, grit or small stone topdressed containers, aged manure and all organic mulching material. Where shoots have emerged I do my best to mulch around them but I find they come through even when buried 2 inches in mulch.
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